every winter odd little trickles of ice form around lower kaikomagatake, but this year those trickles are fatter more developed, in step with the general excellent ice conditions. shifting and transient, these ice falls change daily and will be gone by mid-winter, but for now they provide a fleeting chance for thin, technical climbing on delicate formations.
delicate and varied: dozens of options
measuring between 15m and 45m, most falls are steep with mixed sections on decent granite. most routes are below the treeline and rapped into. unlike a lot of ice falls, the majority are best in the afternoon.
the easy access, good anchors and short routes are ideal training material for bigger stuff requiring more commitment. the routes are quick to get pumpy with delicate moves and a lot of cleaning, so a good place to go hard and fast and develop upper threshold technique.
warming up; when the ice is steep and varied it pays to have a good warm up set to help performance and recovery between days climbing