甲斐駒ヶ岳下のルンゼ LOWER KAIKOMA GULLY ROUTES

despite the volume of random single pitch ice falls, lower kaikomagatake is known for its several gully routes known as ‘runzes’ in Japanese. Presenting a mix of mixed alpine, steep ice, ice & rock steps, snow pitches and even a few cave pitches, these gullys go for 8 or 9 pitches and make a good days climbing.

always entertaining: even for climbers with a solid history of climbing, digging thru lower kaikomas cave pitches never grows dull lower kaikomagatake’s gully ice is usually crystal blue and hard, making for well protected routes…. ….most of the time