this is a big deal. possibly not for the last 75 years has such a cascade of new data for climbing been dropped into the lap of climbers. Tomatsu Nakamura‘s new book is a jaw-dropping compendium showcasing much of his lifes work spent cataloging the ranges north and east of the Himalayan divide.
East of the Himalaya: the antidote for complacency
the word ‘classic’ is far too used these days but this work of geography fits the description. East of the Himalaya: Alps of Tibet & Beyond is far, far more than a collection of photos and maps – this book is the gateway to the greatest areas of unclimbed peaks on earth. anyone who said theres little left to climb will be flattened by what this tome contains. even long term followers of Nakamura will be astounded by what’s within these pages, with levels of detail and a collation of data that puts the future of high altitude mountaineering all into one complete lot.
there are peaks in this book that defy description. the vast majority are unvisited, recorded from proximity by Nakamura’s peerless team that includes logistics providers second to none anywhere north of Everest. if you are excited by the glimpses of peaks you have seen in the AAJ, Alpinist, Japan Alpine News etc you will be awe struck by the extent of whats shown here. beyond mere photographs of alluring peaks is a library of maps that make this much, much more than alpine porn. East of the Himalaya is truly aimed at climbers and pulls together the topos, line maps, geographic data, cultural data and regional details expeditions can be based on. going thru the hundreds of pages of maps, plates and text illuminate a pandoras box of what is possible. despite the scope covered in the many hundreds of images and maps, what is here is only the edge of what is in Tibet.
be warned tho: the content of this book is way beyond the limits of roadside cragging. even the most open of these areas – places like Shuangqiao gou, Minya Konka etc – are serious increments beyond what is found in places like the Khumbu and even Baltoro. even to seasoned Tibet climbers much of what East of the Himalaya details is well beyond normal expedition parameters of the 21st century. even after nearly 20 years of iceclimbingjapan visiting some of the regions described in East of the Himalaya, much of what is shown is known to be significantly more heady – if not impossible – than what we have seen. the material here is genuine exploration.
note: despite being available at an astoundingly agreeable price, East of the Himalaya, isnt available in huge numbers. versions in Japanese, Chinese and English.