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The following posts published on iceclimbingjapan were written by admin.

2017 EXPEDITION – CENTRAL ASIA

TO THE HEART OF CENTRAL ASIA, THIS IS EXPEDITIONS 1910 STYLE Must have; Well developed sense of humor, curiosity and resolve Previous expedition experience with unsupported approaches, alpine climbing and remote areas Navigation experience Desirable; Desert experience Central Asia experience Glaciological expertise Dates August 19 – 30. Confirm by May Members will be joining a [...]

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‘Standing Room Only’; Xialong Rezha, First Ascent, 5625m, Sichuan/Tibet

Xialongrezha west face. Pitches 1 – 4 continue obscured below the fin of rock. 12 pitches, Russian alpine grade 5A (Scottish IV, M4, some pitches run out, some simu-climbed or soloed). 650m. descent by rappelling the route. Photo: Rob Baker During unbroken perfect weather from late October to early November we made the first ascent [...]

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YATSUGATAKE: IT’S STARTING

right now ICE CANDY looks like this.. but if you look at the peaks behind it’s more interesting. up in the gullies the ice is forming, the trickles are freezing and tho its a lean start its climbable. yesterday we got in some laps of drytooling and about 75m of very delicate ice in one [...]

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YATSUGATAKE: THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN

daytime temperatures are hovering around 12c at 2200m and hitting 0c on the 3000m peaks, so with the shortest day soon things will get cold fast. being in the cold sink between peaks and in the shade, as usual the ice forms fast, with the first alpine routes doable in about 4 weeks and Ice [...]

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CHINA CLIMBING PERMITS: HOW, WHAT, WHY

despite not being the best weather window, now is the time when many climbing teams head to Sichuan to climb. seeing the region as a blossoming frontier – and in a way it still is – teams unfamiliar with the mechinations of China show up thinking things will be like Nepal, or Pakistan, or Kyrgyzstan [...]

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WINTER 2016 / 17: Mt FUJI

every winter ascents of Fuji get more in demand, but the mountain doesnt get any easier. to keep it safe and doable, we limit the number of trips we run up there, and focus on genuine big mountain-style ascents, treating the peak like we would any other big alpine objective. this means; trips are often [...]

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NEW EMAIL

NOT ALL OF THE WORLD HAS UNENCUMBERED EMAIL ACCESS. FOR ALL CONTACT WITH ICECLIMBINGJAPAN OVER THE WINTER CLIMBING SEASON BEGINNING SEPTEMBER 2016 PLEASE USE ICECLIMBINGJAPAN (AT) HOTMAIL (DOT) COM

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KYLE DEMPSTER & SCOTT ADAMSON / CILOGEAR UPDATES

2 GUYS STUCK ON THE OGRE IN PAKISTAN. HELP IF YOU CAN, STAY UP TO DATE. https://www.facebook.com/CiloGear      

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BBC EASTERN TIBET ARTICLE

its not often much comes up on Tibetan areas in the BBC, but sure enough, heres a pretty good article describing some of the modern lifestyles out there, very close to some areas we climb in. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-36938787 they get much of the general overview pretty good, helping to dispel some of the persistent myths about [...]

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EAST FACE OF MAEHOTAKADAKE: BUGS, HEAT & SUMMER ICE

you dont hear much about the east face of Maehotakadake (3090M). the north ridge is a classic alpine techy scramble, and a panoramic trail crests its top, but the big, jagged, looming east face is usually little much more than an ominous view as people go past it on the way to other things. with [...]

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