How Trips Work
We meet at the start of the approaches, though often can share lifts if you are already staying nearby. At the trail head we usually do a gear check, then get onto the approach, keeping a pace that works to a larger strategy so we arrive to climb in good shape. Our aim is for you to climb, so you can become better, so we don’t drag anyone up something well beyond their ability. We climb as partners, so you own the climbing, and after can claim the route as climbed independently.
In reality, we lead trips rather than guide them, putting you in the mix of decisions and methods. Rather than have you return next season at the same level, we want you to come back and do the next thing and progress with your climbing.
Sometimes trips don’t meet the objective, that’s a reality of alpinism, and often the best trips are those that go sideways in interesting and challenging ways. ‘Going to sea only in fair weather does not a good sailor make’ goes the Irish saying, and the best alpinists are known for what they try as much as what they succeed on.
Our oversight demands we get everyone back to civilization, either with a summit or having extended themselves, ideally both. Above all what matters is good climbing, and finding where your abilities lay, because alpinism is a long game that can take you to the greatest places on earth.
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Style
In climbing, style is everything, and we stick to an impeccable ethic of Alpinism as laid down by the greats such as Kurtyka, Messner, Scott and Twight. This means we climb mountains by fair means, rising to the standard rather than lowering things to our own misgivings.
In more tangible terms this means we carry our own gear, don’t leave junk behind, avoid fixed and over-used routes, and don’t place permanent anchors. We climb as light & fast as is realistic and think for ourselves on the mountain, climbing as a team not a gathering of egos.
What we do, we do using sane thinking and safe methods. We climb for the sake of climbing, and we keep things fun, mostly. Alpinism has things to teach us all, to evolve confidence and ability and to humble the ego. We think climbing can make people better by giving a very big and very broad perspective, where consequences are real and glitches in character define the result.
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Gear
Ice & Alpine climbing need the right equipment and clothing. It’s obviously cold, and there are objective risks involved, and most of the time it all needs to be carried up and down mountains.
The list presented here is refined from over decades of trips, and if you tick it all off you will have what you need. Other than socks and personal items there is no need to bring extras of anything, keep things simple and straightforward, and as light as possible.
Pack (40-50L)
Water Bottle or flask
Head Torch with Batteries
Baselayer top & bottom
Shell top & bottom
Insulation (the smart climber brings puffy pants)
Midlayer top
Headwear (sun hat, warm hat, buff, wind mask)
Sunglasses
Gloves (thin, full conditions & mitts)
Boots (all our trips require B2 or B3, double boots nice for overnights)
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For Overnight trips
Sleeping bag (rated to around -10c)
Insulated mat
Eating stuff (cup & spoon)
Insulated socks
Powerbank & Chargers
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Of course climbers with their own hardware, tents and protection are encouraged to bring it, but strip it down to ‘alpine’ style. You won’t need huge racks, dozens of slings unless we have big routes as objectives, and as approaches are often long much may end up staying in the car.
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Food
We don’t supply food as it is too personal, and during the long, cold days of climbing you will want your own preferences. We see many people bring far too little, not considering a normal climbing day is about 4000 kcals, and that you will be sick of eating power bars long before you eat enough to cover it.
We suggest real food, at the high end of calorie density, and most of this can be from supermarkets. During the day we eat on the move, so bring stuff that can go in pockets. Overnight we cook in tents and can really only boil water. Don’t forget coffee.
Trips not using tents we eat out at local restaurants, having a network of excellent places that make real food for real people. Ramen often features heavily in what hungry climbers want, but Japan has an entire cuisine that originated in the mountains that goes beyond that.
Call us old school but we still believe water works best for climbing days, combining well with real food where sports drink can get weird. Electrolyte drinks have their place for long trips and after, but if you’re eating properly then water should be fine. Often where we climb has running water, and we have never had issues drinking straight from mountain streams.
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