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PSYCHE

The following posts on iceclimbingjapan were published in the PSYCHE category.

2017 EXPEDITION – CENTRAL ASIA

TO THE HEART OF CENTRAL ASIA, THIS IS EXPEDITIONS 1910 STYLE Must have; Well developed sense of humor, curiosity and resolve Previous expedition experience with unsupported approaches, alpine climbing and remote areas Navigation experience Desirable; Desert experience Central Asia experience Glaciological expertise Dates August 19 – 30. Confirm by May Members will be joining a [...]

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‘Standing Room Only’; Xialong Rezha, First Ascent, 5625m, Sichuan/Tibet

Xialongrezha west face. Pitches 1 – 4 continue obscured below the fin of rock. 12 pitches, Russian alpine grade 5A (Scottish IV, M4, some pitches run out, some simu-climbed or soloed). 650m. descent by rappelling the route. Photo: Rob Baker During unbroken perfect weather from late October to early November we made the first ascent [...]

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YATSUGATAKE: IT’S STARTING

right now ICE CANDY looks like this.. but if you look at the peaks behind it’s more interesting. up in the gullies the ice is forming, the trickles are freezing and tho its a lean start its climbable. yesterday we got in some laps of drytooling and about 75m of very delicate ice in one [...]

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YATSUGATAKE: THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN

daytime temperatures are hovering around 12c at 2200m and hitting 0c on the 3000m peaks, so with the shortest day soon things will get cold fast. being in the cold sink between peaks and in the shade, as usual the ice forms fast, with the first alpine routes doable in about 4 weeks and Ice [...]

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KYLE DEMPSTER & SCOTT ADAMSON / CILOGEAR UPDATES

2 GUYS STUCK ON THE OGRE IN PAKISTAN. HELP IF YOU CAN, STAY UP TO DATE. https://www.facebook.com/CiloGear      

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BBC EASTERN TIBET ARTICLE

its not often much comes up on Tibetan areas in the BBC, but sure enough, heres a pretty good article describing some of the modern lifestyles out there, very close to some areas we climb in. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-36938787 they get much of the general overview pretty good, helping to dispel some of the persistent myths about [...]

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EAST FACE OF MAEHOTAKADAKE: BUGS, HEAT & SUMMER ICE

you dont hear much about the east face of Maehotakadake (3090M). the north ridge is a classic alpine techy scramble, and a panoramic trail crests its top, but the big, jagged, looming east face is usually little much more than an ominous view as people go past it on the way to other things. with [...]

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WILL GADD UNEDITED Q#2

Q: how much of the evolution of your climbing has been planned progression? and how much has been random opportunity? WG: I’ve always just wanted to go climbing. When I was in high school I climbed as many days as possible during climbing season, and that’s still true today. I never thought about it as [...]

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WILL GADD UNEDITED Q#1

this is the first post in a series of ten with Will Gadd. the rules were simple: no editing, no word limits, no punches pulled, no need to even be coherent. shoot from the hip straight to an audience who want to know. as usual Will delivered 110%. Q:  where was ice and mixed climbing [...]

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WANTED:AMAZING WOMEN FOR AMAZING CLIMBING IN IRAN

wanted: amazing women for amazing climbing Sarah Hueniken, the archetype for elite women climbers, establishing Fun Chimes M9 on an exploratory trip with Will Gadd in Japan after a lot of interest from both inside and outside iran, we will be running a special trip to connect women ice climbers. radical, meaningful and an extension [...]

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