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TECHNICAL PEAKS & ROUTES
Japan is a wonderland of technical routes on 3000m peaks, with hundreds of choices year-round. Ranging from hard MICRO-EXPEDITIONS to the flanks and mixed lines of Kaikomagatake in the Southern Alps and the technical 1 day and overnight routes all along the Yatsugatake Escarpment, to the many routes on Tsurugi Dake and Tanigawadake in the North.
Kai-komagatakes O-ren tani Right side variation: long, cold, hard access, multiple pitches of technical climbing in full alpine mode. 1000m of ascent
A long history of technical mountaineering provides endless scope for resurrecting old routes, forging new variations and linking routes in new combinations.
Ideas for technical ascents in Japan include
high winter walls, linked by mixed alpine sections
remote rock pinnacles
hard technical mixed walls
high alpine ice routes
fast & light ascents of classic technical routes
Not all climbing has to be steep routes up cold gullies. Japan is famous for its classic alpine routes, linking summits via ridges and flanks across its network of high alpine terrain. Ranging from easy day routes to difficult and remote multi-day trips, Japan’s classic peak routes are a national institution.