JAPAN'S BEST ALPINE TRIPS BEGIN HERE
‘Little’ Konka isnt so little. at just on 6000m this is about the coolest 6000m peak around, almost a miniature K2. beautiful and straightforward approach using horses (rare in Tibetan areas), surrounded by big walls and huge glaciers, steep but relatively safe, Tshiburongi is far more interesting than the 6000m safaris of peaks like Island…
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2018 sees a series of climbing expeditions to the wildest objectives we can conjure, including a return to the North Eastern Tibetan plateau. after several visits and always stopping to stare, this year we have all the pieces aligned for attempts on several unnamed 5500m – 6000m peak and walls across eastern Tibet. evolution in access,…
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10 years ago the Sichuan quake changed everything. massive death and destruction obviously – 80,000 killed – but it galvanized iceclimbingjapan. wed been there just weeks before and we went back again, along with other climbers both Chinese and foreign. its this event that turned us into the punkish, outward looking outfit ICJ has become,…
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TO THE HEART OF CENTRAL ASIA, THIS IS EXPEDITIONS 1910 STYLE Must have; Well developed sense of humor, curiosity and resolve Previous expedition experience with unsupported approaches, alpine climbing and remote areas Navigation experience Desirable; Desert experience Central Asia experience Glaciological expertise Dates August 19 – 30. Confirm by May Members will be joining a…
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Xialongrezha west face. Pitches 1 – 4 continue obscured below the fin of rock. 12 pitches, Russian alpine grade 5A (Scottish IV, M4, some pitches run out, some simu-climbed or soloed). 650m. descent by rappelling the route. Photo: Rob Baker During unbroken perfect weather from late October to early November we made the first ascent…
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despite not being the best weather window, now is the time when many climbing teams head to Sichuan to climb. seeing the region as a blossoming frontier – and in a way it still is – teams unfamiliar with the mechinations of China show up thinking things will be like Nepal, or Pakistan, or Kyrgyzstan…
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2 GUYS STUCK ON THE OGRE IN PAKISTAN. HELP IF YOU CAN, STAY UP TO DATE. https://www.facebook.com/CiloGear
its not often much comes up on Tibetan areas in the BBC, but sure enough, heres a pretty good article describing some of the modern lifestyles out there, very close to some areas we climb in. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-36938787 they get much of the general overview pretty good, helping to dispel some of the persistent myths about…
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since Messner appeared a while back stating how the eastern Tibet ranges would be his choice should he be a young man again, knowing what he knows, interest has bubbled. and tho climbers like to invoke the name of Messner, not all actually apply what his ideals were for self-supported, clean, committed, daring and integral…
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expedition climbing differs from alpine climbing by how much the day to day stresses effect the outcome. on an expedition youre as likely to get hurt or run down by the loads, the approach and the way you sleep as you are by the actual climbing. you need to be fit and resilient to pull…
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