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drytooling

The following posts on iceclimbingjapan were tagged with the keyword drytooling.

WILL GADD UNEDITED Q#2

Q: how much of the evolution of your climbing has been planned progression? and how much has been random opportunity? WG: I’ve always just wanted to go climbing. When I was in high school I climbed as many days as possible during climbing season, and that’s still true today. I never thought about it as [...]

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WILL GADD UNEDITED Q#1

this is the first post in a series of ten with Will Gadd. the rules were simple: no editing, no word limits, no punches pulled, no need to even be coherent. shoot from the hip straight to an audience who want to know. as usual Will delivered 110%. Q:  where was ice and mixed climbing [...]

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WANTED:AMAZING WOMEN FOR AMAZING CLIMBING IN IRAN

wanted: amazing women for amazing climbing Sarah Hueniken, the archetype for elite women climbers, establishing Fun Chimes M9 on an exploratory trip with Will Gadd in Japan after a lot of interest from both inside and outside iran, we will be running a special trip to connect women ice climbers. radical, meaningful and an extension [...]

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6 ‘DEEP’ EXERCISES FOR EXPEDITION CLIMBING

expedition climbing differs from alpine climbing by how much the day to day stresses effect the outcome. on an expedition youre as likely to get hurt or run down by the loads, the approach and the way you sleep as you are by the actual climbing. you need to be fit and resilient to pull [...]

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2015 / 16 WINTER THAT WAS

2015/16 was a strange winter. conditions were strange, the atmosphere was strange, the locations were strange. it may be part of a greater cycle…or maybe its not. to go with the strangeness, we spread ourselves over a large spectrum this winter. avoiding being too focused in a season that had a large degree of unpredictability [...]

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TANIGAWADAKE SOUTH WEST ICE ROUTES

a hell of a lot gets said about Tanigawadake – but almost none of it about this part. away from the constant stream of skiers, snow shoe groups and snow holers, way up another valley system altogether, are arguably the mountains premier pure ice routes. the confines of the topography and the lack of traffic [...]

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雪山 カナダのウィル・ガッド、日本で2本のミックスルートを開拓

YUKIYAMA MAGAZINE REPORT ON FUN CHIMES M9 & FROZEN GOLD WI7  

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WILL GADD & SARAH HUENIKEN / 2016: JAPAN’S FRONTIER CLIMBING

4 years ago we stood in the base of a volcanic valley in North East Japan, stared up at dozens of ice lines that dripped down the weird volcanic flutings, and knew in the hands of the right climbers it would work. we knew a smattering of routes had been done thereabouts, but we also [...]

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NEW TOHOKU ROUTES: FUN CHIMES M9 & FROZEN GOLD WI7 (+ ONE MORE)

japan, asia & the world now have 2 new routes, both unique in their style, concept and location. with minimal working, maximum work ethic and a frontier mentality, Will Gadd & Sarah Hueniken forged both lines under crazy pressure during an express trip to the Tohoku region. with nearly zero beta and under dangerous conditions [...]

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SHUANGQIAO GOU ICE CONDITIONS

for those headed to the Shuangqiao valley this winter, freeze level has started hitting the valley floor. mixed with recent precipitation and consistent conditions ahead the ice will starting it formation. give it another 6 weeks and things should be just right. Shuangqiao gou climbing requires a few steps of redtape to arrange – some [...]

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