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kaikomagatake

The following posts on iceclimbingjapan were tagged with the keyword kaikomagatake.

GOLDEN WEEK – BE CAREFUL

golden week is here. the highways are jammed, the trains are booked out and the carparks are full. Yatsugatake’s Ice Candy. perhaps in Honshu’s most stable winter environment at 2200m in a shaded amphitheater, its usually still pretty solid in late April. photo from the Akadake Kosen blog. every year it seems winter gets a [...]

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2015 / 16 WINTER THAT WAS

2015/16 was a strange winter. conditions were strange, the atmosphere was strange, the locations were strange. it may be part of a greater cycle…or maybe its not. to go with the strangeness, we spread ourselves over a large spectrum this winter. avoiding being too focused in a season that had a large degree of unpredictability [...]

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THE SORRY STATE OF WINTER CLIMBING IN JAPAN

white dragon wall: hard mixed routes like this cover large parts of japan japan has a good reputation for hard rock climbing, hard bouldering. well known climbers regularly put up world class efforts across japan and foreign climbers often come and repeat them. when japanese climbers go overseas they take this with them and do [...]

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NEW JAPAN ALPINE ROCK ROUTES GUIDEBOOK

finally! its been about 20 years since the last comprehensive guide to japan’s mountain routes came out, and finding them for sale has been near impossible for the last 6 or 7 years. the older versions became classics, recording much about the Japanese attitude at that time, like a time capsule of climbing at the [...]

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甲斐駒ヶ岳下のルンゼ LOWER KAIKOMA GULLY ROUTES

despite the volume of random single pitch ice falls, lower kaikomagatake is known for its several gully routes known as ‘runzes’ in Japanese. Presenting a mix of mixed alpine, steep ice, ice & rock steps, snow pitches and even a few cave pitches, these gullys go for 8 or 9 pitches and make a good [...]

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下甲斐駒変 ESPRESSO WALL MIXED LINES

despite a good range of well known ice routes the mixed lines at lower kaikomagatake are almost never climbed. obvious and striking and right by the access road, the hardish mixed lines are short, direct, bold and powerful – earning them the name Espresso Wall. thin, techy & steep: Reed tapping his way thru the middle section [...]

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下甲斐駒変 LOWER KAIKOMA ESOTERICA

every winter odd little trickles of ice form around lower kaikomagatake, but this year those trickles are fatter more developed, in step with the general excellent ice conditions. shifting and transient, these ice falls change daily and will be gone by mid-winter, but for now they provide a fleeting chance for thin, technical climbing on [...]

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FULL METAL ALPINISM: JAPAN IS NOT WHAT YOU THINK

simply put; the world knows almost zero about climbing in japan. even the most educated climbing geeks struggle to name a single route in japan, with even the names of japans peaks eluding them. the mark of a climbing culture is what its members achieve out in the world of ‘big’ climbing – ie on [...]

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LOST KINGDOM REDUX: TANUKI SUICIDE & KAIKOMAGATAKE

kaikomagatake holds a special place in Japanese alpine climbing, being the step away from the popular stuff across the valley at Yatsugatake. theres several areas amongst the maze of valleys leading in to the peak, with the north east side forming the ‘lost kingdom’. this last trip we went into the lower and middle kaikoma [...]

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ALPINE WALL TRAINING

winters looming so its been time to hone the sort of skills needed for trips in the pipeline. time spent on walls is always valuable, especially when its all about working stuff out, and usually thats easier done when its not -15c. this trip covered a lot of ground over almost 3 weeks, with time [...]

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