CAR PARK GEAR-UP

sometimes it feels like half of winter is spent sorting gear in carparks

yet another sprawling exercise sorting gear on the ground. as trips get more complex and cover greater ground so the amount of gear expands.

micro expedition gear

Cam & Rob in the car park, trying to sort 9 days worth of gear into managable loads

ICE, AID & ALPINE: EXPED DEVELOPMENT

January had perhaps the best winter weather window in the last 5 years, where we clocked up 22 climbing days across half a dozen locations. after a brief Tokyo hiatus to get office stuff done it was back out for 9 days of expedition development and making the most of the winter peak conditions.

ice climbing japan  gear up

another addition to our Car Park Gear-Up photo collection: getting a lot of stuff into shoulder-able loads

kaikomagatake ice climbing

lumping it all in: Kaikomagatake has broken many a team, often over the approach/load equation

ice mixed climbing kaikomagatake

steep ice and mixed climbing isnt rock climbing: getting good at the hard stuff requires a lot of time on top rope doing things you wouldnt risk on lead

ice climbing kaikomagatake

by the time you get onto the deep fat stuff you should be well honed and climbing well within your zone

ice climbing japan kaikomagatake

single pitch stuff is a no brainer, but multi-pitch routes soon become about the transitions between climbing, linking icefalls and rigging/derigging belays. staying warm and tangle-free over 8 pitches of varied climbing is about much more than clipping ropes and changing gloves, especially in a group of 3. the risk managment as the days goes on and complexity increases escalates – especially when you also need to rappel the route too.

ice climbing kaikomagatake

ice climbing amidadake

a shift to Amidadake across the valley bought a change in style, this time faster, lighter and covering double the distance

ice climbing amidadake

after enough time working it out and building confidence, short steep stuff becomes solo-able and a much faster (ie warmer) process getting to the bigger stuff further in

alpine climbing amidadake

the ice is of course what we come for – but its usually the snow between that gets the pulse up. 12 pitches over several kms makes for a lot of transitions between low angle trudging and steep agility.

alpine aid training tanzawa

after 9 days in the cold relocating to a lower, warmer place to focus on alpine aid basics was a welcome change

alpine aid climbing training tanzawa

alpine aid is a stripped down and guerrilla version of ‘true’ aid; racks are lighter, theres less cams and moving parts, rope systems simpler and clothing heftier – all better developed somewhere comfortable before being used high up

alpine aid climbing training tanzawa

…especially things like high-stepping onto hooks in big boots

aid alpine training backwards toucan

…and using gear in ways that push the design; yes, thats a Pika Toucan touqued in backwards

alpine aid stacked micro wires

stacked micro-wires are another thing best worked out on top-rope before done on lead…

alpine climbing japan

mixed alpine climbing is about a varied skill-set executed with confidence and focus. it takes time to develop and needs attention and committment. getting to the top is one thing, getting home is another.

all photos by ‘Green Machine’ Cam Bowker & ‘Aero-press’ Rob

Cams blog with lots more photos at http://cameronbowker.com/japan-2014/

PROJECT PROMO CLIP

a short video from the Teton Mountain Project showing the japan climbing experience. shinto temples, crowded subways and electrodelic shopping to long approaches, ice and mountain routes.

click on the image

mountain project promo video

ROLLING OUT AGAIN

coldest time of year approaching which is exciting to many. heading out for 2 weeks straight of exciting stuff training for soloing and getting onto some alpine walls up high. nothing quite like the feeling of getting it all bagged and stacked and ready for a 04:30 start.

ice climbing japan homemade energy bars

commercial stuff just doesnt cut it for trips longer than a few days. when a bar only has +/-250Kcals it means carrying too much. home made, its easy to shoehorn 400kcals into the same mass, which means carrying 1/3 less day food.

ice climbing japan expedition packing

250m of rope, olympus mons, 20kg of rack, a tent and 2 tarps: some of the ingredients for a great 2 weeks ahead

KAIKOMAGATAKE & AMIDADAKE VALLEY ICE

its a good ice year in Japan – cold, dry and clear. plans exist for higher stuff, but with such a window it would be folly to let the chance of good lower ice slip past. from about 1250m conditions have ripened ice all across central Honshu, making this the finest year in ages for the stuff that gets less attention.

ice climbing japan conditions

the forecast: perfect

ice climbing japan car park gear up kaikomagatake

gearing up in the car park

all good trips start with the ‘car park gear up’ – sorting food and deciding what luxuries can be given up. the process is much easier when the carpark is almost empty, most people deterred by the forecast of low temperatures

kaikomagatake ice climbing japan

kaikomagatake from the approach: always foreboding, looking up into the 1000m alpine routes that keep things in perspective

as its own massif, Kaikoma hides dozens of lower valleys that lead up to the main peak, some are warm, south facing with fat early season ice, others are remote and gruelling with thin cascades hundreds of meters high. roads allow access to about 1000m before the walking starts

kaikomagatake ice climbing valley ice

blue ice on granite: some of the valley ice

 lower kaikomagatakes valleys are steep and narrow, with their upper terraces getting enough sun to allow the melt to creep down into the floor. the blend of spring and snow water makes for clear and blue ice that forms well over the granite

kaikomagatake ice climbing inside cave japan

mixed sections thru caves

in the summer Kaikoma gets a wide temperature oscillation that generates a lot of boulder piles, which freeze safely over winter to make for constricted routes thru squeezes, caves and narrow sections. shifting trickles from snow build up makes for interesting ice lines, sometimes thru boulder caves

kaikomagatake ice climbing japan belay

interesting mixed sections thru contorted passages

 as most runzes are below the treeline, belays are often off solid trees, making exit-rappels easier in the short winter days…

ice climbing japan nasty old anchor

grim

…except where theres no trees and the nastiness of old japanese anchor building comes out. unsavoury anchors are a part of japanese climbing, sometimes crazy, sometimes just badly informed, its vital to carry independant anchor gear when confronted with stuff like this.  we cut several meters of aging crap from dubious anchors over the course of the trip

kaikomagatake ice climbing japan

the rarely forming ‘Iran’: 25m WI 5+, M5, this year thin and squeezy

 lines below the trail dont often form well, getting too much melt with not enough cold. but this year, already in condition, the serious mixed lines ‘Iran & Iraq’ are climbable. starting from fat ice pillars, both routes then thin out into thin smears and granite placements – all steep – that make for entertaining climbing

mixed ice climbing japan kaikomagatake

‘Iraq’: 20m, M9. this year very thin and highly sketchy, scary climbing

amidadake ice climbing japan

Amidadake from the approach

tho just over the ridge, with longer routes and with a much shorter approach, the Amidadake ice routes get much less attention than the main Yatsugatake ice area due to the lack of a lodge.

ice climbing japan amidadake dirt bagging

dirt bagging it at -8c in the carpark before the approach: ‘the way we roll’

amidadake ice climbing japan

the night slog in, snow starting to fall

amidadake ice climbing japan hillberg tent

the following morning, after a damp night at -15c

 about 25cm of snow fell over night, catching us on the approach and continuing thru to the small hours. the next day was devoted to thawing frozen gear and body parts. having the right tools for the job matters when its far below zero oC, so a tent with a large vestibule makes things a bit easier

amidadake ice climbing japan

HEADING OUT

first big trip of the 2013/14 season heads out in a few days. this ones a complex & exciting blend of big wall training and remote alpine walls just before winter gets serious. covering several locations – each with its own focus – means organizing gear for rock, ice, alpine mixed, big walls and unsupported access. this aint a weekend chipping away within sight of the car.

winter wall climbing gear japan

theres gear and theres gear. some of the stuff needed for a multiweek jaunt across multiple locations, climbing styles and weather conditions.

yes, thats 2 portaledges. the bags on top contain about 2/3 of the rack and the trunk  in front is some of the food.

forgotten walls: crucible of japans hard alpine history

summers peaked and it seems autumn is a bit early, so after a
long, hot season thoughts are shifting to winter projects.

spliced together from forgotten topos, conversations with some of
Japans top climbers, old photos and ideas from around the world, this winter is
looking like it will be all about alpine walls.

japan alpine wall climbing

 winter aid routes on big granite walls: the foundation of Japanese alpine climbing

we spent the last few seasons following leads to locate routes
that formed japans best climbers. despite the names attached to them, many of
these routes have slipped into obscurity – to the point that besides japans
elite and a generation now in their 60s, most young climbers wont have heard of
them. and its not that the routes were superceded by anything other than shifts
in climbing trends, as indoor, bouldering and weekend locations like ogawayama
opened up.

as far as walls go these are not the biggest, not the coldest and
not the sketchiest, but they are some of the most obscure. between 300m and 525m,
Japans alpine walls are similar in length to the South and West faces of Yosemite
and most of the routes in Zion, but getting vastly less attention still rate
due to their obscurity and risk – theres no scenic tourist road at the base of
any of these. tho some routes go back to the 1930s, most were initially aided
in the 60s during the early summer, on nasty gear and little of it, using fixed
ropes for mini-sieges, then forgotten about as climbers turned to more sport
oriented routes. these days they are still remote, with often difficult access,
and most of them nothing more than rusted lines of rivets and pitons described
sparingly in long out-of-print topos. a handful have become esoteric summer
free routes, but the vast majority are nothing more than dotted lines on hand
drawn topos. most will never have seen winter repeats.

digging up these old routes is a mix of history and cryptography.
little is recorded and what is uses obscure descriptions of things that may
have changed. in the decades since these routes were recorded conditions have
changed, and in most cases winter conditions were simply not factored in.

several recon trips have turned up just how unvisited these walls
are, with trails long washed away and the few remnants of climbing debris being
weathered beyond identification. in some places we found old tools, biners and
hardware worn down after decades of snow and ice tumbling them. a common relic
was the rings from Japanese split rivets that had been stretched into oval
shapes by winters of snow slowly pulling them out.

japanese wall topo

cryptic and beguilingly simple. Japanese topos are exercises in understatement.

in winter these are routes not to be taken lightly. most are above
2000m and cold, with several meters of snow and access down narrow ravines on
frozen streams. most areas see almost no visitors between November and April
when the rivers freeze.

japan wall aid climbing

japan has lots of granite, which means a mix of ice-scoured, seamless gullies and sharp, complicated roofs. note this is the A2 roof shown in the 5 pitch of the topo above, simply described as ‘hanging’.

most are decent granite, with complex crack systems and sets of
roofs that show testament to japans active geomorphology. several walls are
high up and exposed, sitting above big couloirs with +2000m drops to the frozen
streams in the valley floor, and many have gullies ground smooth from ice and
rain to leave tiny seams only passable with the thinnest of gear.

50 years ago japan was fairly isolated in the climbing world. the
pre-war climbing tradition that had Japanese teams climbing all thru the Himalayas
– often under the radar disguised as Buddhist pilgrims – had been dormant
during the decades of conflict with Russia, china and the west. whilst the west
got busy after the war, sending expeditions to the Himalaya, japan was
rebuilding, taking almost 2 decades before it was affluent enough again to take
climbing seriously. tho some serious routes were put up in these years, it was
the cultural explosion of the mid-60s – fuelled by glimpses of what was
happening in Yosemite and the Alps – that galvanized a new generation of
climbers. most were young, motivated by a new economy and inspired by the
Americans and pushed deeper into japans mountains looking for walls. still
isolated culturally, but with a long mountain tradition of their own, these
guys put up routes on homemade gear, sometimes scrounged from maritime supplies,
that seem crazy in retrospect. whilst Chouinard and Robbins were spawning the
future of American hardware, Japanese climbers were aiding entire 400m walls on
hooks, wooden chocks and iron-mongery made for farming tools. the death tolls
for places like ichi-no-kura where much of it was tested speak for itself, with
about 30 deaths a year for much of the 60s and 70s.

by the 80s Japanese climbers were taking their version of climbing
back to places like the Karakoram, Pamir and Tibet. meanwhile the remote alpine
walls theyd grown up on were becoming overlooked as new climbers took to the
booming climbing phase more in the gym and bolted short routes close to the cities.
occasional trips went out to free some of this near-forgotten lines, with a
surge of interest in the early 2000s, and its worth noting that the few that
got converted did so at grades in the 5.11/5.12 range, some by no less than
Yuji Hirayama and Yasuhiro Hanatani.

japan climbing alpine walls

mid 90s photo on the lower pitches of one of the classic alpine walls in the Northern Alps

our aim here is to expose the element of hard Japanese climbing
actually inside japan. everyone knows
about the Giri Giri boys, the north side of K2, Japanese routes at Trango and
in Alaska – so its time to show the crucible  where a big part of the Japanese alpine
mentality was forged.

its serious work. organizing and gearing up for this series of
trips isn’t just a matter of jumping in the car. not knowing the condition of
the routes means rethinking whats there and being prepared for everything from
clean aid and big wall methods to steep ice, alpine mixed and lots of hauling
loads. in piecing it together weve found more info on Tajikistan, Antarctica and
Baffin island than we have on Japans hard alpine routes….

japan wall winter

byou bo iewa. not the usual image of Japanese climbing. image found on shizennnonakade.com

expressions of interest are welcome, but this is not for everybody.
despite the modern conveniences of Japan,
once off the grid these objectives are as much uncovering history as they are
breaking new ground. the skill set for these routes is broad, demanding
familiarity with more than just roadside ice and climb-by-numbers route following.
a functional ability in the dark arts of skyhooking, seam-nailing, guerrilla mixed
and winter ledging is a basic prerequisite.

trips to these walls will be done micro-exped style, requiring a
minimum of about 10 days – all totally unsupported, in temperatures down to
-25c.

teams will be small, so numbers will be limited, but anyone excited
by old topos, exotic places, rediscovered routes and serious climbing is
encouraged to get in touch.