Tag: micro expedition

JAPAN'S BEST ALPINE TRIPS BEGIN HERE

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KAIKOMAGATAKE O-REN TANI & LOST KINGDOM

IT’S THE YEAR WE’VE BEEN WAITING FOR. DRY & COLD, THE FLANKS OF KAIKOMAGATAKE ARE IN THE BEST CONDITION THEY HAVE BEEN FOR YEARS WITH GOOD ICE EVERYWHERE. ANYONE LOOKING TO GO INTO KAIKOMAGATAKES ‘LOST KINGDOM’ IS ADVISED TO SADDLE UP. THE APPROACH HAS CHANGED, MAKING IT QUICKER WITH LESS WANDERING AROUND, AND ICE FALLS…
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THE DNA OF JAPANESE ALPINISM; PACHINKO & THE NORTHERN ALPS TRAVERSE

SO ANYBODY FAMILIAR WITH THE HIMALAYAS OR ALASKA KNOWS THE JAPANESE HAVE MADE MAJOR CONTRIBUTIONS TO WORLD CLIMBING – ON PAR WITH THE POLISH, SLOVENIANS, AMERICANS, RUSSIANS. SHRUGGING OFF A MID-HISTORY OF SIEGING MOUNTAINS WITH THOUSANDS OF METERS OF FIXED LINE, EMERGING CLIMBERS BECAME KNOWN FOR DARING ROUTES ON MINIMAL FOOD AND GEAR, OFTEN PLAYING…
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MICRO EXPEDITIONS AS PREPARATION

every year we get requesting to join expeditions to tibet, china, turkistan, iran etc. most requests begin with something similar along the lines of the grades they climb and some names of routes, peaks and locations. climbers a bit more switched on then say how many days out a year climbing they do. yes these…
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ICE CLIMBING JAPAN 2018/19 ROAD TRIP

THE 2018/19 ICE CLIMBING JAPAN SEASON WILL BE ON THE ROAD 3 weeks, 100s of kms, dozens of ice climbing locations departing from our usual way of doing things, this upcoming winter will use the climbing mainstay – the road trip. rolling the length of Honshu, this is the ice climbing aficionados trip going thru…
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2017 EXPEDITION – CENTRAL ASIA

TO THE HEART OF CENTRAL ASIA, THIS IS EXPEDITIONS 1910 STYLE Must have; Well developed sense of humor, curiosity and resolve Previous expedition experience with unsupported approaches, alpine climbing and remote areas Navigation experience Desirable; Desert experience Central Asia experience Glaciological expertise Dates August 19 – 30. Confirm by May Members will be joining a…
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BBC EASTERN TIBET ARTICLE

its not often much comes up on Tibetan areas in the BBC, but sure enough, heres a pretty good article describing some of the modern lifestyles out there, very close to some areas we climb in. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-36938787 they get much of the general overview pretty good, helping to dispel some of the persistent myths about…
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EAST FACE OF MAEHOTAKADAKE: BUGS, HEAT & SUMMER ICE

you dont hear much about the east face of Maehotakadake (3090M). the north ridge is a classic alpine techy scramble, and a panoramic trail crests its top, but the big, jagged, looming east face is usually little much more than an ominous view as people go past it on the way to other things. with…
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EASTERN TIBET STYLE

since Messner appeared a while back stating how the eastern Tibet ranges would be his choice should he be a young man again, knowing what he knows, interest has bubbled. and tho climbers like to invoke the name of Messner, not all actually apply what his ideals were for self-supported, clean, committed, daring and integral…
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Mt FUJI ICEFALL: DAMN, JUST MISSED IT

the ice fall inside Mt Fuji’s caldera is real. it exists. and the last 2 winters we have documented it – tho missed it both times despite a spectrum of dates. we know it forms in mid to late spring, but being so hard to check on…well, you know. +/-70M, interesting access, no good top…
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6 ‘DEEP’ EXERCISES FOR EXPEDITION CLIMBING

expedition climbing differs from alpine climbing by how much the day to day stresses effect the outcome. on an expedition youre as likely to get hurt or run down by the loads, the approach and the way you sleep as you are by the actual climbing. you need to be fit and resilient to pull…
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