Tag: mizugaki yama

JAPAN'S BEST ALPINE TRIPS BEGIN HERE

Created with Sketch.

MICRO EXPEDITIONS AS PREPARATION

every year we get requesting to join expeditions to tibet, china, turkistan, iran etc. most requests begin with something similar along the lines of the grades they climb and some names of routes, peaks and locations. climbers a bit more switched on then say how many days out a year climbing they do. yes these…
Read more

ICE CLIMBING JAPAN 2018/19 ROAD TRIP

THE 2018/19 ICE CLIMBING JAPAN SEASON WILL BE ON THE ROAD 3 weeks, 100s of kms, dozens of ice climbing locations departing from our usual way of doing things, this upcoming winter will use the climbing mainstay – the road trip. rolling the length of Honshu, this is the ice climbing aficionados trip going thru…
Read more

THE SORRY STATE OF WINTER CLIMBING IN JAPAN

white dragon wall: hard mixed routes like this cover large parts of japan japan has a good reputation for hard rock climbing, hard bouldering. well known climbers regularly put up world class efforts across japan and foreign climbers often come and repeat them. when japanese climbers go overseas they take this with them and do…
Read more

PREPARATION: PRE-EXPEDITION TRIPS – WHY BOTHER?

somewhere up a huge granite face, a long way from home, with no topo to point the way, in the cold, is NOT the place to find out how your stove works. or your bivy bag. or your aiders. or your tent. or your partner. likewise, a day at a crag or a night in…
Read more

SUPERTOPO REPORT: MIZUGAKI SOLO

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/LORD-OF-THE-RINGS-ANOTHER-JAPANESE-WALL-SOLO/t12705n.html

NEW MT MIZUGAKI GUIDE BOOK

Japan’s not the easiest place to find the climbing in. theres hundreds of places but aside from a core few most are quiet and off the grid. Unlike other destinations with hard climbing histories, many of Japan’s serious routes in the 5.13 – 5.14 range are surprisingly obscure. Even the Japanese complain about the lack…
Read more

瑞牆山冬の壁 Mt MIZUGAKI WINTER WALLS

deep winter needs to be revelled in, not avoided. so when things get cold its time to hit the ‘winter only’ projects, and for a few years now that means mixed walls. mizugaki is the slightly esoteric sister to japans well known ogawa-yama rock area, all the routes are big, the granite spires high, relatively…
Read more

JANUARY 2015 JAPAN ICE CONDITIONS UPDATE

weve said all along this winter was a good one for ice, and now after the first quarter its time to update 裏同心 Ura Do Shin F8: weve never seen this in before. in the old days it was WI4, this year about M5. a very rare opportunity as the ice has fattened with an…
Read more

ON ITS WAY: JAPAN ICE CONDITIONS

you couldnt ask for better: rain and melt then a sharp drop into deep freeze. what weve waited all summer for. already theres been two significant freezes and now the definitive freeze is on its way. a bout of rain and snow in the days before then a plunge into serious cold. compared to previous…
Read more

瑞牆山 Mt MIZUGAKI; SUMMER WALLS

mizugaki-yama is the quintessential Japanese mountain; high spires of teetering granite, gravity-defying conifer trees, trickling waterfalls and narrow gorges emerging from a sea of quiet deciduous forest and layers upward drifting mist. straight from an old ink painting, Mizugaki is as much an icon of Japanese-ness as it is of serious climbing. whilst crowds flock…
Read more