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psyche

The following posts on iceclimbingjapan were tagged with the keyword psyche.

2017 EXPEDITION – CENTRAL ASIA

TO THE HEART OF CENTRAL ASIA, THIS IS EXPEDITIONS 1910 STYLE Must have; Well developed sense of humor, curiosity and resolve Previous expedition experience with unsupported approaches, alpine climbing and remote areas Navigation experience Desirable; Desert experience Central Asia experience Glaciological expertise Dates August 19 – 30. Confirm by May Members will be joining a [...]

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‘Standing Room Only’; Xialong Rezha, First Ascent, 5625m, Sichuan/Tibet

Xialongrezha west face. Pitches 1 – 4 continue obscured below the fin of rock. 12 pitches, Russian alpine grade 5A (Scottish IV, M4, some pitches run out, some simu-climbed or soloed). 650m. descent by rappelling the route. Photo: Rob Baker During unbroken perfect weather from late October to early November we made the first ascent [...]

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KYLE DEMPSTER & SCOTT ADAMSON / CILOGEAR UPDATES

2 GUYS STUCK ON THE OGRE IN PAKISTAN. HELP IF YOU CAN, STAY UP TO DATE. https://www.facebook.com/CiloGear      

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WILL GADD UNEDITED Q#2

Q: how much of the evolution of your climbing has been planned progression? and how much has been random opportunity? WG: I’ve always just wanted to go climbing. When I was in high school I climbed as many days as possible during climbing season, and that’s still true today. I never thought about it as [...]

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WILL GADD UNEDITED Q#1

this is the first post in a series of ten with Will Gadd. the rules were simple: no editing, no word limits, no punches pulled, no need to even be coherent. shoot from the hip straight to an audience who want to know. as usual Will delivered 110%. Q:  where was ice and mixed climbing [...]

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WANTED:AMAZING WOMEN FOR AMAZING CLIMBING IN IRAN

wanted: amazing women for amazing climbing Sarah Hueniken, the archetype for elite women climbers, establishing Fun Chimes M9 on an exploratory trip with Will Gadd in Japan after a lot of interest from both inside and outside iran, we will be running a special trip to connect women ice climbers. radical, meaningful and an extension [...]

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EASTERN TIBET STYLE

since Messner appeared a while back stating how the eastern Tibet ranges would be his choice should he be a young man again, knowing what he knows, interest has bubbled. and tho climbers like to invoke the name of Messner, not all actually apply what his ideals were for self-supported, clean, committed, daring and integral [...]

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SE’ERDENGPU WINTER BIG WALL ATTEMPT IN WILDERNESS MAGAZINE

 fresh from the pages of WILDERNESS magazine 2016 No.6 edition. translation pretty much the same as the article here      

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TIBET 2016 FURTHER, BIGGER, WILDER: NEW POSITIONS AVAILABLE

plans for Tibet have solidified. new areas are being scheduled, permits are being shuffled and the climbing being analyzed. with 6 months to go it’s time to set a course with training, gearing up and getting your head in the game. this all means new positions have opened up for some objectives – all of [...]

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WHAT MAKES THE EXPEDITION CLIMBER ?

contrary to what the climbing media will show you, expedition climbers are not usually the coiffed, logo-laden, high tech, well spoken ambassadors they are made out to be. after 20 years going on prolonged trips to places barely on the map, weve come across enough of the real thing to recognize it when we see [...]

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