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yatsugatake

The following posts on iceclimbingjapan were tagged with the keyword yatsugatake.

YATSUGATAKE: THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN

daytime temperatures are hovering around 12c at 2200m and hitting 0c on the 3000m peaks, so with the shortest day soon things will get cold fast. being in the cold sink between peaks and in the shade, as usual the ice forms fast, with the first alpine routes doable in about 4 weeks and Ice [...]

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GOLDEN WEEK – BE CAREFUL

golden week is here. the highways are jammed, the trains are booked out and the carparks are full. Yatsugatake’s Ice Candy. perhaps in Honshu’s most stable winter environment at 2200m in a shaded amphitheater, its usually still pretty solid in late April. photo from the Akadake Kosen blog. every year it seems winter gets a [...]

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2015 / 16 WINTER THAT WAS

2015/16 was a strange winter. conditions were strange, the atmosphere was strange, the locations were strange. it may be part of a greater cycle…or maybe its not. to go with the strangeness, we spread ourselves over a large spectrum this winter. avoiding being too focused in a season that had a large degree of unpredictability [...]

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THE SORRY STATE OF WINTER CLIMBING IN JAPAN

white dragon wall: hard mixed routes like this cover large parts of japan japan has a good reputation for hard rock climbing, hard bouldering. well known climbers regularly put up world class efforts across japan and foreign climbers often come and repeat them. when japanese climbers go overseas they take this with them and do [...]

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YATSUGATAKE: IS THE ICE CANDY WALL OPEN?

conditions at Yatsugatake have finally stabilized and the Ice Candy ice wall is fully functional. as usual the shape has been altered a bit for the season, and its still thin – but as the ice is less picked out and still forming our opinion is its at its best. now is the time to [...]

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JANUARY 2015 JAPAN ICE CONDITIONS UPDATE

weve said all along this winter was a good one for ice, and now after the first quarter its time to update 裏同心 Ura Do Shin F8: weve never seen this in before. in the old days it was WI4, this year about M5. a very rare opportunity as the ice has fattened with an [...]

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ON ITS WAY: JAPAN ICE CONDITIONS

you couldnt ask for better: rain and melt then a sharp drop into deep freeze. what weve waited all summer for. already theres been two significant freezes and now the definitive freeze is on its way. a bout of rain and snow in the days before then a plunge into serious cold. compared to previous [...]

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FULL METAL ALPINISM: JAPAN IS NOT WHAT YOU THINK

simply put; the world knows almost zero about climbing in japan. even the most educated climbing geeks struggle to name a single route in japan, with even the names of japans peaks eluding them. the mark of a climbing culture is what its members achieve out in the world of ‘big’ climbing – ie on [...]

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野田賢 KEN NODA : DEATH ON YARIGATAKE

on 3/26 ken noda died in a fall on yarigatake in the northern alps. an outstanding climber right at the tipping point of his career with first ascents in peru only the summer before, ken was also the nicest, most shy and unassuming guy around. photo from www.yarigatake.co.jp over several seasons hanging out at Akadake-kosen, where [...]

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美濃戸口 MINOTO-GUCHI: RARE FUN

steep, fun and easy: ice climbing doent always have to be prolonged alpine ordeals. when rare conditions exist to just play on good ice is smart to take them its been at least 5 winters since the ice at Minoto-guchi has been in decent condition. usually thin veils of fragile and bleached icicles, this seasons [...]

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