Other than Mt Fuji, we run few standard trips, nearly everything being tweaked to the ideas of each climber. We are highly mobile, going where the climbing is, and happily cover the length of Japan to climb the best of what’s there.
After initial contact we work out the exact details of the trip, and cost it and explain the basics. There’s not much we won’t do, if it involves climbing we are in, and can adapt trips as they go to get the best climbing.
Below is a brief overview of what we have to work with, and we are open to ideas, the bigger the better. We regularly do road trips across multiple areas, series of trips across a season and work on new routes, and are happy to work with climbers preparing for ascents to high altitude and technical objectives.
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Ice Climbing
We made ice climbing in Japan a thing. Before 15 years ago, coming to Japan to climb ice was unheard of, aside from a few sponsored climbers, and they were keeping it secret. We spent years finding the best places to learn, climb classics and put of first ascents, delving deep into local knowledge and out-of-print sources to find what works for outsiders. Not everyone wants the secrets of Japan’s ice climbing revealed, and we respect that. There is plenty of good stuff for all levels, and the best stuff…..you’ll need to ask.
All these years later, hundreds of climbers have come through our ranks, some among the world’s elite and others just getting into it. We run things honestly and matter-of-factly, as this is something with no room for anything else, and climbers that put the effort in are rewarded with climbing most never know.
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Alpine Ascents
Before Japan, we cut our style in the Himalayas & Karakoram, on stuff like K2 and dozens of first ascents. We still do this, spending much of each year in places you won’t have heard of, and this is how we inform our trips to the 3000m peaks of Japan.
Japan itself has a huge legacy in international climbing, bringing a style and perspective just as integral as the Polish, Brits and Italians. The great Japanese climbers developed this in the ranges of Japan, just as their foreign compatriots did in the Alps, Tatras and Scotland.
Our trips cover everything from very active volcanoes to world class alpine faces, with many routes having more than 2000m of gain through surprisingly untouched terrain. Conditions can be very cold, and the routes very involved, with Japan being notorious for leaving routes in a very wild state.
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Mt Fuji
No one else does Mt Fuji in true winter. That we are the only provider of ascents right through the coldest time of the year, speaks of our commitment to alpinism. And of those who do venture up there, we are the only ones climbing by fair means, eschewing the stairs and handrails to climb with respect for the mountain.
Around 100 winter ascents has let us find the nuances and secrets of Mt Fuji, including spending dozens of nights on the flanks and venturing into the caldera. This means we can climb with good strategies that minimize risks, and let us push into conditions that turn others around.
We also know full well how dangerous Mt Fuji can be, every year assisting police in searches and with information. Contrary to the belief that the mountain is closed in winter, we have a long dialogue with the authorities supporting the idea that unprepared people should not go beyond the roads.
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Asama Yama
Asama Yama is a real alpine ascent, not technical, but exposed, high and requiring a strategy because it is a very active volcano. This is a good alpine test-piece, to get your gear and planning right before heading to bigger things like Mt Fuji.
In winter Asama Yama is arguably Japans coldest mountain, always with strong winds straight off the Northern Alps. The slopes are exposed, sometimes with deep snow low down, belying what is a serious ascent not to be taken lightly.
Of course Asama Yama also continuously plumes with volcanic gas, meaning it must be climbed from the right side to avoid what would be toxic in too large amounts. Dozens of ascents means we have a plan that moves fast and away from the fumes, bringing us to the caldera rim in what is an astounding site.
As a true alpine test, we run Asama Yama and Mt Fuji back to back, for the Japan double-header of the highest active volcano and highest peak – also a volcano – for 4000m of ascent in 2 days.
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Expedition Preparation
Half of our climbers are just starting out, the other half well on their way to bigger and more committed objectives. We believe that all climbing can lead to the worlds greatest peaks, and give priority and extra time to those who know where they want to go.
We know first hand what big expeditions demand, and have this as our perspective on even the most introductory of trips. Some may call this overkill but we call it high standards, and it’s what sets us apart from the weekend warriors and jaded career guides.
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